The adhan comes at around 5:00 AM these days. There is an earlier, whispered, optional call to prayer that creeps out from the mosque across my street an hour or so before that, slightly more hushed but still audible if your night’s been restless and you’ve had trouble sleeping. The muezzin always seems embarrassed to be giving it, as if he wished he were in bed himself — as if he didn’t have to be the one to wake the brothers up.
There is the faint rumbling of cars. No traffic lights in Alex, so cars honk through intersections to warn others that they’re coming. The call to prayer fades out, then only the rattle of the tin tram through Sporting Station. Dogs barkin the distance.
At about 7:15 AM or so, a man on a donkey cart rides beneath my balcony, shouting out, “Beyd! Beyd!” (Eggs!), and punctuating this repetition, there is the clatter of an iron bell as hooves clank by, and he is gone.
An hour later, a boy on a bicycle balancing a propane tank rides down the same Teba Street. He rattles on the tank with a wrench, announcing his presence to anyone that wants to buy.
Another iron bell. The fuul cart comes by, selling stewed fava beans for a pound, to be spread over pita with oil and salad. Give us this day our daily…
The man shouting Beyd! makes a second pass at Teba Street, going the opposite direction. I look down; he is selling eggs. Piles of them. Carts of eggs.
The horns get louder. Noise rises in the city. Cats fight in the street below. A garbage truck beeps, and cars back up down the one-lane road, occasionally beeping to remind it to hurry up.
Another donkey cart. I can see the man selling potatoes and lettuce, red onions and garlic, but his megaphone is impossible to understand. He goes riding by, repeating jibberish, his feet dangling off the back of the cart, as the donkey books his way down the narrow little avenue. He is going the wrong direction in the one-way road.
The rumble of cars becomes more regular. The tram goes by every five minutes or so; a wind-like rush and the screech of the wheels on the ungreased tracks. My shutters bang in the wind, which is ashen and dusty from a fire out on Lake Maryeotis.
Sabah al-ful, ya Iskanderiyya.